blog team
ABOUT GLAMCULT INDEPENDENT STYLEPAPER
Since the release of the magazine six years ago, Glamcult has developed itself from an edgy underground tabloid to one of the leading magazines in Holland when it comes to fashion, music, film, art and todays youth culture.
Glamcult offers its readers articles on and interviews with the hottest fashion designers, artists, musicians, actors and photographers on a monthly basis, looking way beyond mainstream culture. We select, create and wonder around in todays avant-garde cultures and present it with strong visual language, attractive content and an expressive imagery. This mixture gives Glamcult an unique position within a young and innovative group of readers.
JANTINE VAN PESKI
We’ve been following Dutch fashion designer Jantine van Peski quite a while now and we really love her work. She graduated in 2011, the same year in which she participated at fashion competition ITS#TEN, a yearly contest hosted by Diesel. She keeps us posted on our blog, fortunately, because she’s really worth keeping an eye on!
Jantine studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute before attending the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, where she graduated from a master degree with the collection WIRES 10.0. She gained experience at the fashion houses of Haider Ackermann and A.F. Vandevorst. Her work focuses on silhouette and craftsmanship, with great attention to materials and techniques. For this collection, Jantine was strongly influenced by the textile sculptures from the 1970’s and specifically the macramé-technique.
The collection consists of 12 complex and labor intensive pieces, sometimes completely knotted and sometimes the macramé is integrated in the garments.
KRISVANASSCHE Linda Farrow & Eastpak
Menswear designer Kris Van Assche presents his first line of sunglasses in collaboration with Linda Farrow. He created six designs available in four colour combinations: metallic black, silver metal, matte brown and brushed metal. For this last variation, the sleek lines are given a raw edge with bluish soldering burn marks.
Next to this collection, Van Assche also worked for a second season in association with Eastpak to create yet another original collection. He captures the codes that make Eastpak so popular and absorbs them into his stylish world. Van Assche has created 11 designs available in four combinations of fabrics and colours. From black to beige cotton twill, all styles are dipped into white paint, with strokes of red and metal details. Each piece incorporates a multiplicity of functional accessoires, detachable pouches, multimedia sleeve and key ring.
The Eastpak collection will be available from January 2012, the line of sunglasses from February 2012, through a selection of KRISVANASSCHE, Linda Farrow and Eastpak retailers.
NICK OBERTHALER // BOOK LAUNCH
The Austrian artist Nick Oberthaler launches a book about his latest exhibition, coming Friday on December 9th in the Martin van Zomeren gallery in Amsterdam. Oberthaler uses various techniques for his work. Though he likes to refer to his works as ‘drawings’, he also works with paint and ink, which he further combines with pasted-on fragments.
The title of this exhibition and book, Zweifel und Gnade (le doute et la grâce), refers to these two states that often affect the artist: everything may change at the very last minute, and you never know if a drawing is truly complete when it is exhibited. The book also includes essays written by art critics Joanna Fiduccia and Gallien Déjean.
Friday December 9th / 17:00 hrs
Galerie Martin van Zomeren
Prinsengracht 276 hs
1016 HJ Amsterdam
SHAO YEN CHEN
Glamcult has been following Taiwanese designer Shao Yen Chen ever since we wrote about his graduation collection. Yen recently presented his spring/summer 2012 collection, which has a more darker approach then his previous collections. The name of the collection is the same as the autumn/winter 2011 collection, but in reverse: Sseddog. The titel suggests a theme worlds apart from the fairy goddesses, while the raw and handcrafted DIY spirit is expressed in the details of rough edges and though techniques such as binding, knotting, and layering. Ssedog not only takes references from tribal, punk, but also bondage and streetwalkers’ styles. The collection line-up is also inspired by, and wishes to explore, how exposing different parts of the body can create different aesthetics and meanings.
Shao Yen Chen was born in Yilan, Taiwan. He moved to London and started courses in Central Saint Martins College in 2003. During his studies, he has interned with Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Claire Tough, and was awarded the 2009 winner of Fashion Weekend/Le Vif Award in Brussels, Belgium, with his BA graduation collection. He started his own label “Shao Yen” after graduating from MA Fashion Knitwear in 2010.
Yen’s trademark is his experimentation with unconventional materials and form. He has been presenting at London Fashion Week since participating in the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion show during London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010. In 2011, he was invited to curate a display window for the prestigious Selfridges department store in London, as part of their “Bright Young Things” project.
Julie Eilenberger
Danish designer JULIE EILENBERGER was one of sixteen participants of the Cutting Edge platform at Modefabriek. For her graduation collection, entitled Naked As We Came, the designer drew her inspiration from the naive, isolated and imaginative world of both children and adults.
She apologises for the fact that she has lost her voice, the result of long nights working on her collection, which must be finished a week from now. Fortunately, she can still be understood. “It’s sheer madness right now. I have a small studio where I work around the clock with friends, family and trainees. The collection involves a great deal of handiwork, so all help is welcome.” This young designer is studying fashion at the Universität der Künste Berlin (UdK). “The most important thing I’ve learned is to cut myself off from the world and follow my gut. The analysis part comes afterwards,” she explains. At the UdK, the focus is on the personal development of students. External influences are avoided as much as possible. “We do not receive much information about the fashion industry or what other designers are doing. This results in a sort of isolated world. It makes you a lot more creative.” But that doesn’t mean she’s afraid to leave her familiar cocoon and face the real world of fashion. “I grew up with hardworking parents, each with their own business. I’m not naïve. Throughout the creative process, I enjoy excluding myself from the world and, afterwards, find it particularly interesting to see how people respond to my work.”
Although her mother worked as a graphic designer and her father as a photographer, Julie knew from a very young age that her path would be a different one. “I was always a bit of an outsider, a ‘hippie’ if you like. My parents’ work was very commercial. I saw fashion as something experimental and without boundaries.” Following in the footsteps of her parents has never been an option. “What child wants to be their parents anyway?!”, she laughs. Eilenberger has never had a style icon or favourite designer. Her fascination with fashion is based purely out of her own interest. “When I was growing up, I couldn’t wait to be old enough to wear women’s clothing. I was very small and thin and looked forward to the day my mother’s clothing would fit me.” Memories from the past have an important influence on the designer’s work. “When I was little I lived in my own world. Most of my inspiration is derived from my personal experiences and the people around me.” Eilenberger is unable to name a favourite designer. “I don’t want to limit myself. I admire designers who come up with something different every season and continuously reinvent themselves without losing sight of their personal values. A good example is PRADA, which, amazingly, remains true to itself every season.”
Her graduation collection Naked As We Came is inspired by the overlapping world of children and adults. “I am fascinated by the naive yet eccentric world in which they both live, the fact that older people often regress to a childlike state, once again becoming isolated from the world outside and creating their own world.” Eilenberger combines old and new in the collection. This includes the use of the old-fashioned zigzag, which she has printed digitally. Traditional knitwear techniques are also used in a new way by working with cotton instead of wool. “I’ve sought out a balance between old-fashioned and childlike. I’ve always been fascinated by old people. I spent a year living inItaly and loved how the older women get all dressed up there, with a look that is simultaneously traditional and eccentrically cool.” Eilenberger hopes to break through with her collection. “A lot depends on this. If there is enough interest, the collection can be put into production and ultimately sold.” The designer tends to avoid contemplating the commercial aspects of the profession. “A large fashion house is not my ambition. I work very hard to keep doing what I am doing, without committing myself to a commercial label.”
Although she very much enjoys living in Berlin, Eilenberger looks forward to moving back to Londonafter graduation. This has been her favourite city since she worked at CHRISTOPHER KANE during an internship. “Hard work but fun. I was there the entire season, so I got a very good idea about the way things work in this world.” The mentality of the designers and the fashion scene in the city are what appeal to her most. “People are not afraid to take risks. Fashion is much more reserved and commercially oriented in Denmark.” All the same, she visits her home country often. “I’m constantly on the go and feel most at home in a combination of different places. I love the big city; there’s always something to do, lots of people, and you never get bored. But I also love to go home and sit and watch the sea. That makes me feel a bit calmer, healthier.” There is little chance of a future inParis. “I’m crazy aboutParis but, as far as fashion is concerned, it’s a bit more traditional and conservative. Give meLondon’s spirit of freedom any day.”
According to the designer herself, a Julie Eilenberger design is difficult to categorise. “The inspiration for my past collections was always different and very specific.” Whereas her My Inner Outer Space collection was influenced by her favourite science fiction film, Barbarella, she drew her inspiration from the abstract landscapes of nature films for the Marry Me Nature collection. “My inspiration changes with the time. I love to throw myself into a project and live in that world for a few months.” And yet, the use of handiwork, nostalgic influences and a play of colours are elements found in every collection. “It’s always a mix between yesterday and tomorrow.”
By STEFFIE HENDERSON
Photography by STELLA SCHWENDNER
Veronique Branquinho for Marie Jo L’Aventure
Just like last year Belgian lingerie brand Marie Jo L’Aventure releases a capsule collection in collaboration with a guest designer. Designer duo A.F. Vandevorst was chosen last year. This year Veronique Branquinho is invited to create a complete but compact collection for inclusion in Marie Jo L’Aventure’s 2011-12 winter collection. The result is a refined line stamped with the unmistakable signature of this Belgian designer.
Veronique Branquinho for Marie Jo L’Aventure” is bathed in a 1950s ambience and infused with a sense of couture, in terms of both materials and design. Transparent pieces in tulle, grosgrain and plissées exude pure luxury. The body has a deep rounded back reminiscent of extravagant evening dresses. The eye-catcher in the collection, alongside the “demi-corps” bra, the high briefs and the corset. A flexible, skin-friendly material was developed for the straps with the same look as grosgrain, a rather rigid material used in haute couture.
The look and feel of satin silk was also matched with a micro-fibre that looks like a satin duchesse. The collection comes in a mysterious emerald (green) and a timeless onyx (black), two precious stones that only intensify the feeling of couture.
Veronique Branquinho for Marie Jo L’Aventure will be available in specialty lingerie boutiques commencing mid September 2011.
FILM IS THE FUTURE
Gareth Pugh is one of the most fascinating creative minds at the moment. Glamcult and Mr. Pugh have one thing in common; we both think fashion film is the medium of today. Fashion film is still exciting in a way that fashion photography often isn’t these days.
Since Gareth’s first collection at London Fashion Week in 2005, his shows still draw standing ovations as he continues to blur the lines between high fashion and art. His vision was the antidote to the pared-down aesthetic of the previous decade.
Nowadays Gareth Pugh is also known for his breathtaking innovative fashion films, in collaboration with filmmaker Ruth Hogben. The films are translations of what is going on in the designer’s head; they allow you to get deeper into his inner world. The films are remarkably iconic and scream Gareth Pugh. They take each collection to a mysterious world of rectangular folded designs and body movement where climactic sounds touch your soul; it’s an explosive innovation to fashion films.
LA MAISON CHAMPS-ELYSEES BY MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
‘Fashion’s invisible man’ Martin Margiela – known for his timeless designs with identity – leads a complete refurbishment of the property and re-design on the former Sofitel hotel.
The concept of La Maison was to develop a place to get away and have some rest and privacy.
The goal is clear; give guests the experience of having a luxurious city home. Margiela’s distinctive style will be clearly recognizable in the whole interior. With his signature as theme, he turns the building into a minimalistic white world where everything meets in perfect balance.
La Maison Champs-Elysées is located in a quiet place between the Avenue des Champs-Élysées and the River Seine. The hotel features 57 rooms, 6 suites and 5 junior suites and will open its doors towards the end of spring 2011.
