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EP!C MOONWALK
Moon Spoon Saloon could be best described as <3 0MFGL0L EP!C <3 + <3. Or, to put it differently: it’s the fashion brand of a digital hipster generation. For those who do not immediately understand what is meant by this term, check out this Tumblr, this Tumblr or this Tumblr. After Facebook and Twitter, where the persona and/ or branding of a specific person stands at the forefront, an anonymous Tumblr seems to be the next best thing for those at the frontiers of contemporary culture. The current trend on Tumblr can be described as spiritual atmospheres mixed with hysterical bright colored futuristic GIF animations. And that is exactly how Moon Spoons fashion looks like. Most noticeable are the fully printed and hysterically high, spacy, platform shoes. They are featured on Moon Spoons own Tumblr/ website in between inspiration images, past or present collections and videos of art performances. However there is loads to discover, it’s a not a very consumer friendly page. It means that whoever wants to know what exactly is the brands design and where it is for sale, should go find that out on their own. In a time where news and information are available instantly, it might be an inspiring challenge. It proves that how ‘t0tally rad’ or ‘ep!c crazy’ Moon Spoons platforms may look like on the surface, they sure walk to the exact beat of the zeitgeist.
Dutch Invasion
When walking through Cologne’s so famous and vibrant district “Belgisches Viertel” in the beginning of this week, my attention got caught by an overwhelming, let’s even call it an overloaded, wallpaper. I stopped and looked through the big window when a guy inside just covered the last piece of a white wall with this catchy pattern. Scrutinizing concentratedly, I recognized one square next to the other, each showing stereotypes such as women in twinsets and nuns in their typical robe. Obviously showing interest, the guy informed me that this is part of the exhibition Exactitudes displaying the same-named long-term photo project by photographer Ari Versluis and profiler Ellie Uyttenbroek.
Since 2004, they have systematically documented social groups and their appearance. Each of their series is strictly structured and shows twelve similar persons, visually reminding of the works of Bernd and Hilla Becher. Some of the groups belong to subcultures, others don’t, yet they all share a characteristic dress code and usually the same poses.
Questioning the connection between fashion and art, Exactitudes epitomes that the two disciplines are indeed linked to each other. Not only in theory by some professionals, but also in everyday life: by us choosing for a certain appearance and Ari and Ellie documenting it and bringing it into gallery and museum spaces. Furthermore, the show is a reflection on society mirroring an image that sometimes causes a smirk but can also create a dispirited feeling.
Starting on the 3rd of February, the exhibition is showcased at Gallery Ruttkowski;68. Until the 18th of March.
Louis Vuitton Bag Charms
For the release of Louis Vuitton’s new elegant Hot Air Balloon Bag Charm, Part of a Bigger Plan has created and produced a short animation to be shown on Louis Vuitton’s new web platform, New Now. The film follows the little collectable Bag Charm on an adventurous journey. A miniature version of the monogram trunk is suspended from the hot air balloon. The balloon is seen wandering through an unknown and ancient world in search of its home. Watch the video at Louis Vuitton’s New Now web platform.
NEW AT MODEFABRIEK/ CUTTING EDGE: CONCHITA PEREZ EMBRACES ‘PHILOGYNY’
What do UK-designer Conchita Perez and fashion icon Coco Chanel have in common? Answer: Karl Lagerfeld’s blessing and the fact that they are both smart entrepreneurs. Just like Coco, Perez has her own salon to showcase her collection. She founded ‘Self Esteem Salon’, a space where she exhibits art, shows her collection on the catwalk and where her boutique “Lovely Innit” is housed. She is a power woman who is very DIY-oriented, which might remind you of the movie ‘Coco avant Chanel’,where (in the end) we see a proud Coco watching her dressed up models strut down the catwalk. In her own studio.
Just like her, Perez might be one of those, ultra-driven women. She collaborated with different artists and designers – for instance Alexander McQueen – and worked her way up to here: getting ready for Paris Fashion Week.
Basically, Perez likes to dress other strong women. That must be the reason why she named her S/S 2012 collection ‘Philogyny’, which means “fondness, love, or admiration towards women.” The ideal woman is feminine, but in control. Naturally powerful. It is seen in the translation of Philogyny: “The use of the luxurious and transparent silk in contrast with the rawness of leather on the woman’s skin,” as Perez describes it. The result is a balanced partition of fierce-looking leather jackets and trousers, combined with the delicacy of silk tops.
Very wearable for women of today’s society: not afraid to be feminine, but definitely not feeble.
For more information, stop by her website: http://theselfesteemsalon.conchitaperez.co.uk/
Berlin Hipsters
This week quite some fashion folks will be in Berlin for the Bread & Butter fair. Mind the Berlin hipsters!
NEW AT MODEFABRIEK/ CUTTING EDGE: ALEXANDRA KIESEL CONSTRUCTS THE RULES OF FASHION
It took Berlin-based designer Alexandra Kiesel only six months after her graduation in February 2011 (Weiβensee School of Art) to win an important award. ‘The Designer for Tomorrow Award’ was handed to her by Marc Jacobs himself; which, you must admit, is kind of impressive. The advantages? The opportunity to show her new collection to an important audience at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. And…flying to New York to meet Marc Jacobs in his studio, where he gave her some food for thought: “It’s nice to make fashion. But it only works if you make fashion, which is purchased by customers!”
A market-driven orientation is the key to success when it comes to Marc Jacobs and Alexandra Kiesel implemented this mindset in her collection ‘Building Blocks Individuals’. A very wearable yet authentic collection. She tries to explain the specific rules of fashion, mathematical ánd technical, inspired by the allure of German Modernism: Bauhaus style. Kiesel explains: “My outfits are characterised by strongly contrasting colour combinations, geometric shapes and rather austere cuts. With my second collection, which I will present at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin on January 18th, I choose the same idea. Under the banner of ‘support your local heroes‘ I have collaborated with Berlin-based artists for my debut-collection and I combined various illustrations in a highly diverse and multi-faceted manner.”
With Marc Jacobs’ advise resonating in her head, it’s up to Kiesel to give the audience some food for thought, revealing the rules of fashion.
JANTINE VAN PESKI
We’ve been following Dutch fashion designer Jantine van Peski quite a while now and we really love her work. She graduated in 2011, the same year in which she participated at fashion competition ITS#TEN, a yearly contest hosted by Diesel. She keeps us posted on our blog, fortunately, because she’s really worth keeping an eye on!
Jantine studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute before attending the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, where she graduated from a master degree with the collection WIRES 10.0. She gained experience at the fashion houses of Haider Ackermann and A.F. Vandevorst. Her work focuses on silhouette and craftsmanship, with great attention to materials and techniques. For this collection, Jantine was strongly influenced by the textile sculptures from the 1970’s and specifically the macramé-technique.
The collection consists of 12 complex and labor intensive pieces, sometimes completely knotted and sometimes the macramé is integrated in the garments.
Forward fashion for women ánd men
Some men complain that fashion is not as much fun for them as for women. Well, guess they did not visit MINT then, as we will have some really cool forward fashion for women ánd men.
First of all there is Monkee Genes. This jeans label was born in 2006 out of the frustration of the denim market. Disillusioned with disposable high street fashion, the Monkee Genes team decided to raise public consciousness. They achieve this by using organic fabrics made by people who care – because they are being cared for! This results in innovative fits and styles in top of the range fabrics and classic denim with a retro twist.
People Tree is a pioneer in forward fashion. Founded 20 years ago, People Tree uses fashion as a tool to empower the world’s most marginalised people. For every beautiful garment they make, there’s an equally beautiful change happening somewhere in the world. Their in-house design team works innovatively to marry seasonal trends with traditional hand-skills and natural materials. In 2009 world attention was drawn to People Tree when actress Emma Watson collaborated with the brand on her first ever collection.
The Danish brand A QUESTION OF fosters diversity and creativity. According to them digitalization is the true revolution, resulting in transparency and sincerity in the means. The collection of A QUESTION OF is developed in collaboration with talented designers, illustrators and artists. With their sustainable fashion they want to create a better tomorrow and ensure continuous creative development through today’s talents.
MEET AMSTERDAM’S FIRST PUBLIC RED CARPET
Amsterdam has recently been enriched with an inspiring hospitality concept. Hotel The Exchange, restaurant Stock and conceptstore Options! might well be the foundation of Amsterdam’s new red carpet – not to be confused with the city’s red light district. Located at the Damrak – between Amsterdam Central Station and Dam Square – it is the perfect place to get introduced with the city’s creative character in a very approachable as well as affordable way.
Hotel The Exchange is an initiative of Otto Nan and Suzanne Oxenaar, who were brave enough to start up the project which seamlessly weaves together fashion and architecture. The concept rests on a partnership with the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) and centers on “rooms dressed as models”. This allowed the designers to treat each room as an individual, making them all a unique experience.
Since the concept should give shape to Amsterdam’s red carpet, the building needed a red carpet of its own during the opening. Therefore the entire front of the building was covered in red fabric attached to the dress of Liesbeth in ’t Hout – co-initiator of the project and former director of AMFI – was wearing. When she stepped forward The Exchange revealed itself to the public.
You’re most welcome to drop by, have a drink or a bite to eat at Stock, spoil yourself at Options! or enjoy a good night sleep in one of The Exchange’s enchanting rooms.
Barbie in Prague
18 December 2011 saw the death of Václav Havel, the Czech Republic’s most important politician since the fall of communism in 1989. On that very day I arrived in Prague, a city I had never visited before, and witnessed the beauty of a city in mourning. Havel’s name echoed through the streets. Everywhere I went, I saw his picture and heard his name in a language that I didn’t understand. It felt like history was happening all around me.
The next day was sunny and, while exploring this unfamiliar city, I accidentally stumbled upon a Barbie exhibition at the Prague toy museum. This fantastic exhibition illustrated the history of fashion. While I wandered through the hushed museum I gazed in admiration at the fashion of decades gone by. The trends were clear to see, albeit in miniature, in the outfits worn by this world-famous doll. The new look by Dior, classics by Balanciaga and Chanel, famous 1980s models, typical 1970s prints and 1960s dresses – all of them demonstrate how fashion can encapsulate an era perfectly.
