MODEFABRIEK Modefabriek
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Modefabriek
Modefabriek
Forward fashion for women ánd men
Some men complain that fashion is not as much fun for them as for women. Well, guess they did not visit MINT then, as we will have some really cool forward fashion for women ánd men.
First of all there is Monkee Genes. This jeans label was born in 2006 out of the frustration of the denim market. Disillusioned with disposable high street fashion, the Monkee Genes team decided to raise public consciousness. They achieve this by using organic fabrics made by people who care – because they are being cared for! This results in innovative fits and styles in top of the range fabrics and classic denim with a retro twist.
People Tree is a pioneer in forward fashion. Founded 20 years ago, People Tree uses fashion as a tool to empower the world’s most marginalised people. For every beautiful garment they make, there’s an equally beautiful change happening somewhere in the world. Their in-house design team works innovatively to marry seasonal trends with traditional hand-skills and natural materials. In 2009 world attention was drawn to People Tree when actress Emma Watson collaborated with the brand on her first ever collection.
The Danish brand A QUESTION OF fosters diversity and creativity. According to them digitalization is the true revolution, resulting in transparency and sincerity in the means. The collection of A QUESTION OF is developed in collaboration with talented designers, illustrators and artists. With their sustainable fashion they want to create a better tomorrow and ensure continuous creative development through today’s talents.
Forward shoes and underwear at MINT
In our last blog we told you about the Green Fashion Competition. We are really proud that 6 (!) of the MINT-exhibitors made it to the final rounds of the Green Fashion Competition.
One of them is OAT shoes, they were the first runner-up of the first edition. When it comes to sneakers, you usually have to choose: toxic or clean, naughty or nice. OAT shoes made it possible to choose green ánd style. They developed ‘shoes that bloom’. Literally that is: you can bury your nifty sneakers after they’re worn down. Water them regularly and watch flowers bloom from your old kicks!
Besides the blooming sneakers from OAT, we will host another forward shoe brand at MINT: olsenHaus – Pure Vegan. The brand is 100% cruelty–free, using only non-animal materials that are environmentally friendly. The olsenHaus style focuses on clean lines, color and unexpected material mixes. The sandals, wedges, pumps and boots are made of alternative materials that are clever and sophisticated, like cork, linen and ultra suede.
Just like good shoes, underwear is an essential part of your outfit. In Bloom London designs high quality organic cotton lingerie. All women’s underwear is made in France with love. Their core is to care & inspire. They design and produce their collection with care for the earth. And In Bloom London believes that wearing beautiful lingerie pieces sublimated by a careful sourcing process will inspire women to fulfill their own dreams.
The Danish brand Underprotection gives men and women the possibility to combine ethics and aesthetics when buying underwear. It’s what you wear closest to your body and therefore they only use non-toxic sustainable materials such as bamboo, soy and organic cotton. A sustainable thought is good, but a sustainable way of living is gold. Therefore Underprotection strives to implement sustainability in every aspect of their work.
We are looking forward to meeting you on the 22nd and 23rd of January at MINT!
Green Fashion Competition finalists at MINT
Last time we shared some minty Dutch fashion brands with you. It’s not only us who think they design forward fashion: Elsien Gringhuis won the first edition of the Green Fashion Competition. This is a competition for entrepreneurs in the fashion industry, for individuals and teams with a vision of what the sustainable future of fashion should look like. studio JUX is one of the nominees for the finals in January 2012. We are really proud that in total 4 finalists will showcase their collection at MINT. Besides studio JUX, they are STAT Division, L’Herbe Rouge and O My Bag.
STAT Divisions creates ethical fashion, combining chic minimalist cuts with luxury sustainable fabrics. The designs are characterized by feminine, nautical and sporty elements. The result is a collection of unique, yet timeless separates and accessories: a wardrobe essential for any independent fashion fanatic with a conscience.
French brand L’Herbe Rouge was nominated because of their clear understanding of the impacts of materials and processes on biodiversity. Their designs are both refreshing and poetic. The innovative materials used have an organic farming (no pesticides or herbicides) or recycling origin. They translate their sustainable vision into forward fashion decisions, for example a dye from organic grapes.
Last finalist that will be present at MINT is O My Bag. The bags are produced in India and made from eco-leather from local Indian cows. The Green Fashion Competition jury says: “This labels presents accessories that are classical with a slightly fashionable twist. The used materials are very well sourced, and give the designs the must-have factor.” Wow, quite a compliment if you are only on the market since 2010!
NEW AT MODEFABRIEK: BRUUNS BAZAAR // DANISH CRAFTMANSHIP ILLUMINATED BY ASIAN ART S/S 2012
“Relaxed elegance”, the key concept of Bruuns Bazaar has been taken to a new level in the S/S 2012 collection. Yes, we see loose fitted dresses and blouses but the sharp angles and plain colours create a certain edge, the so called ‘Scandinavian signature’. Rebekka Bay, Creative Director, stated that this minimalistic signature is “influenced by modernism and architecture, which inspires designers to focus on craftsmanship, functionalism and detail.”
When it comes to detail we must pay attention to the colours. Asian art is rooted in the colour scheme of this collection. Bay explains: “We found inspiration in a Wong Kar-Wai movie called ‘In the mood for love’ and in Nobuyoshi Araki’s sensual flower photography. For the colours we looked towards exotic fruits and oriental flowers. Ranging from Pale Hibiscus, pink Orchid and waxy Flamingo lily, to Dragon fruit, Magenta Rambutan and bitter orange-green Kiwano. We played the livid colours against subtle neutrals in vanilla, camel, tobacco and midnight blue. Topping it off with architectural and graphic shapes.”
This mixture of Japanese shades and functional design results in a rich set of effortless looking garments. “Relaxed elegance” is for instance reflected in romantic vanilla knits, a camel leathered sack dress, mustard-yellow pants or razor-sharp black and white blazers; handing us the classic Danish design.
While Bruuns Bazaar is known for representing timeless minimalism. This summer she lets us cross the frontier and dream of a long custard coloured (Japanese) summer.
Visit the website for more information: http://www.bruunsbazaar.com/
Julie Eilenberger
Danish designer JULIE EILENBERGER was one of sixteen participants of the Cutting Edge platform at Modefabriek. For her graduation collection, entitled Naked As We Came, the designer drew her inspiration from the naive, isolated and imaginative world of both children and adults.
She apologises for the fact that she has lost her voice, the result of long nights working on her collection, which must be finished a week from now. Fortunately, she can still be understood. “It’s sheer madness right now. I have a small studio where I work around the clock with friends, family and trainees. The collection involves a great deal of handiwork, so all help is welcome.” This young designer is studying fashion at the Universität der Künste Berlin (UdK). “The most important thing I’ve learned is to cut myself off from the world and follow my gut. The analysis part comes afterwards,” she explains. At the UdK, the focus is on the personal development of students. External influences are avoided as much as possible. “We do not receive much information about the fashion industry or what other designers are doing. This results in a sort of isolated world. It makes you a lot more creative.” But that doesn’t mean she’s afraid to leave her familiar cocoon and face the real world of fashion. “I grew up with hardworking parents, each with their own business. I’m not naïve. Throughout the creative process, I enjoy excluding myself from the world and, afterwards, find it particularly interesting to see how people respond to my work.”
Although her mother worked as a graphic designer and her father as a photographer, Julie knew from a very young age that her path would be a different one. “I was always a bit of an outsider, a ‘hippie’ if you like. My parents’ work was very commercial. I saw fashion as something experimental and without boundaries.” Following in the footsteps of her parents has never been an option. “What child wants to be their parents anyway?!”, she laughs. Eilenberger has never had a style icon or favourite designer. Her fascination with fashion is based purely out of her own interest. “When I was growing up, I couldn’t wait to be old enough to wear women’s clothing. I was very small and thin and looked forward to the day my mother’s clothing would fit me.” Memories from the past have an important influence on the designer’s work. “When I was little I lived in my own world. Most of my inspiration is derived from my personal experiences and the people around me.” Eilenberger is unable to name a favourite designer. “I don’t want to limit myself. I admire designers who come up with something different every season and continuously reinvent themselves without losing sight of their personal values. A good example is PRADA, which, amazingly, remains true to itself every season.”
Her graduation collection Naked As We Came is inspired by the overlapping world of children and adults. “I am fascinated by the naive yet eccentric world in which they both live, the fact that older people often regress to a childlike state, once again becoming isolated from the world outside and creating their own world.” Eilenberger combines old and new in the collection. This includes the use of the old-fashioned zigzag, which she has printed digitally. Traditional knitwear techniques are also used in a new way by working with cotton instead of wool. “I’ve sought out a balance between old-fashioned and childlike. I’ve always been fascinated by old people. I spent a year living inItaly and loved how the older women get all dressed up there, with a look that is simultaneously traditional and eccentrically cool.” Eilenberger hopes to break through with her collection. “A lot depends on this. If there is enough interest, the collection can be put into production and ultimately sold.” The designer tends to avoid contemplating the commercial aspects of the profession. “A large fashion house is not my ambition. I work very hard to keep doing what I am doing, without committing myself to a commercial label.”
Although she very much enjoys living in Berlin, Eilenberger looks forward to moving back to Londonafter graduation. This has been her favourite city since she worked at CHRISTOPHER KANE during an internship. “Hard work but fun. I was there the entire season, so I got a very good idea about the way things work in this world.” The mentality of the designers and the fashion scene in the city are what appeal to her most. “People are not afraid to take risks. Fashion is much more reserved and commercially oriented in Denmark.” All the same, she visits her home country often. “I’m constantly on the go and feel most at home in a combination of different places. I love the big city; there’s always something to do, lots of people, and you never get bored. But I also love to go home and sit and watch the sea. That makes me feel a bit calmer, healthier.” There is little chance of a future inParis. “I’m crazy aboutParis but, as far as fashion is concerned, it’s a bit more traditional and conservative. Give meLondon’s spirit of freedom any day.”
According to the designer herself, a Julie Eilenberger design is difficult to categorise. “The inspiration for my past collections was always different and very specific.” Whereas her My Inner Outer Space collection was influenced by her favourite science fiction film, Barbarella, she drew her inspiration from the abstract landscapes of nature films for the Marry Me Nature collection. “My inspiration changes with the time. I love to throw myself into a project and live in that world for a few months.” And yet, the use of handiwork, nostalgic influences and a play of colours are elements found in every collection. “It’s always a mix between yesterday and tomorrow.”
By STEFFIE HENDERSON
Photography by STELLA SCHWENDNER
NEW AT MODEFABRIEK: ELSIEN GRINGHUIS
written by Coen Wulms
Our immediate surroundings are an important source of inspiration to Elsien Gringhuis. Until recently the Dutch designer focused on urban landscapes with its oppressive conditions But since her collection f/w 2011/12 the source of inspiration has changed and appears now to be the organized space of the Dutch landscape with its suggestion of quietude and endlessness. And with the omnipresent wind symbolizing permanent movement en therefore energy.
For spring/summer 2012 this has resulted in a small collection of 14 styles. Striking: Gringhuis limited herself to only two pattern pieces in each garment. As a result the collection comes across as very constructed and minimalistic.
Gringhuis uses only natural materials such as silks, bamboo and a cotton that is coated with bee wax. The main colours are white, black, orange and ochre. Elsien Gringhuis second line, Basic Ones, is included in her main collection.
The designer is a former winner of The Green Fashion Competition.
Amsterdam inspiration guide for cosmopolites
The Brandretail Company LIGANOVA recently launched an Amsterdam inspiration guide for the cosmopolitan traveler, in cooperation with FRAME publishers.
This Amsterdam edition is part of the ‘Inspiration Guide’ series. Following Paris, Berlin, and Copenhagen, the Amsterdam Inspiration Guide is the latest edition, featuring the coolest in-scene tips for cosmopolitan travellers and metropolites.
The collector must-have appears in three fresh neon colours and offers insider tips away from the mainstream with some cool photography. 15 Amsterdam-based contributors from the fields of fashion, design and media have been selected to all exclusively reveal their favourite hang-outs and must-sees. Amongst the contributors are Programme Director of Amsterdam International Fashion Week, Merle Deterink, Editor-in-Chief at FRAME, Robert Thiemann, and It-Girl of the current Mango blog campaign, Andy Torres from Stylescrapbook.com.
The ‘Amsterdam – Inspiration Guide for Cosmopolitan Travellers’ is available in a selection of bookstores and at liganova.com and framemag.com.
Working together with Modefabriek, this Sunday and Monday, LIGANOVA and FRAME Publishers provides each brand exhibitor at Modefabriek a free copy. More Amsterdam Inspiration Guides will be found in the goody bags front row at the Next & Cutting Edge catwalk show. The guides are also being sold at Mendo’s pop-up bookstore .
16 x INTERNATIONAL
I recently introduced the 4 Dutch designers taking part at the international platform of Next & Cutting Edge. This Saturday, 12 more designers fly & drive to Amsterdam to participate at the talent and avant-garde designer stage at Modefabriek. Tomorrow we will all meet up for the fitting of the show presentation Modefabriek presents Next & Cutting Edge, scheduled on Monday 18th around noon. From Sunday, they are already present for meeting & greeting, an introduction to their label and the showcase of their newest collections.
To start off with Patrick Mohr. The German avant-garde designer creates designs that are architectural, sometimes draped in flowing, and a tension between elegance and sportiness, avantgarde and streetwear. After having seen his collection SS 2012 collection „I Want Mohr“ at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin last week, I indeed want mohr. And yes, we are presenting a good selection of Mr. Mohr’s collection next Monday on the Next & Cutting Edge catwalk.
Meet Katja Schlegel and Kai Seifried. They are the designers behind Starstyling. The label created a self-made universe, filled with brain damage and exploratory techniques, and is on something like a voyage through a world of urban pattern-making. Starstyling takes you along on their next journey with their ss 2012 ‘Stripes for your right right to party’. As this name already suggests.. it’s all about stripes. In the form of sporty style, comfortable summer clothing.
Also German-based, but Danish designer Julie Eilenberger, always starts her work from an emotion which then translates into clothing and visuals. She draws her drawing inspiration from her own childhood and is fascinated by the eccentric and delicate worlds that the elderly live in. Eilenberger found it was a natural topic for her to combine the extremely similar characteristics of these two demographics and translate it to her collection.
The label SADAK by Serbian designer Sasa Kovacevic maintains strong ethnographic ties to Serbian traditional attire and is generally inspired by culture and history. SADAK often reinterprets traditional and/or historical clothing with a fashion-forward flair, blending tribal symbolism, local beliefs and, for example, sci-fi cinema.
Danish brand uncommon creatures was founded by Jens Kold-Christensen and Christina Højris Ottosen with their debut A/W10 collection. Jens studied brand design, marketing and communication, while Christina attended a course in fashion design at TEKO. Their ways crossed in 2008: they met accidentally in a bar and got along at once.
Uncommon creatures’s main concept encapsulates aesthetic motifs of different ethnic communities. This results in daring collections, at times showing through a dark mood, that focuses on perfect wearability, in combination of pure, raw designs, age-old traditions and contemporary trends. This, topped with charm and mystery.
Hailing from Spain is the design duo of young El Colmillo de Morsa. Catalan Jordi Espino and Elisabet Vallecillo both graduated from ESDi Design University. Directly after, they decided to create their own brand. Their s/s 2012 collection “El Triángulo de las Bermudas” (Bermuda Triangle), lets us embark into the unknown, into mystery of old legends and myths told by those explorers who embark on a journey of no return.
Just across the border, Antwerp-based designer Belgian Angelo van Mol shows us his signature design in the collection SHRPST. A collection with male elegance, sportswear and formal wear. As graduate from the Royal academy of fine arts he wins the acclaimed “motivation award from Ann Demeulemeester & Ann Chapelle”.
US, New York based Raun LaRose is graduate of the Art Institute of New York. In 2009, he interned at Zac Posen in Paris. A year later, young LaRose had launched his own independent menswear label. LaRose is considering to furthering his education at Central Saint Martin’s in London but already he’s a designer to watch.
Folk themed designers twenty(2)too from Romania and German label Thu Thu give us colorful prints, knitwear and clean lining. More knitwear will be presented by Lithuanian born Laura Theiss. This fresh and talented Central Saint Martins graduate continues her exploration of traditional hand knitting and croched techniques in her SS 2012 collection. The collection is inspired by the mood of the zeitgeist, she brings her signature style of unusual colour and texture combination with a futuristic, feminine injection.
NEW AT MODEFABRIEK: Samsoe Samsoe
written by Coen Wulms
Scandinavian brand Samsøe Samsøe craves for light and open air after a long and dark winter. As a result the s/s 2012 menswear collection embarks on an adventure into the unknown in a quest for freedom. This feeling is translated in a series that is a mix between a clean spring mood and an outdoor feeling. Functional materials as waxed and crispy cotton provide a practical yet classic look. A great range of structures and stripe patterns together with linen and dry cottons are essentials for knit and jersey. Heavy materials as corduroy and denim give the collection a nonchalant workwear attitude. The colors are a variety of whites and khakis mixed with washed tones of burned reds and yellows. Contrasted with shades of blue and green. The Samsøe Samsøe s/s 2012 womenswear collection embraces the feeling of spring, new beginnings and the youthful urge to go somewhere – anywhere! The line is characterized by a mix of structures, prints and graphic looks inspired by nature, a variety of soft sheer and transparent fabrics that contrast well with heavy washed desert cottons, chunky knits, suede, leather and denim. Thus creating a classic yet modern feminine wanderer look. The colors are a light palette of nude tones mixed with dusty shades of blues and black. Bright red is a contrasting colour.
