Tag: cutting edge

Next & Cutting Edge catwalkshow

Next & Cutting Edge

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NEW AT MODEFABRIEK// BERLIN PROMISES: LOOKING BACK AND AHEAD WITH HIEN LE & ISSEVER BAHRI S/S 2012

In Berlin the old and new are merged as one. The city is known for its industrial design as well as its Russian architecture, bohemian artists, its do-it-yourself mentality and graffiti plastered districts. Somewhere along the line the old and new blended and it has been translated into fashion. The Next and Cutting Edge-platform presents two Berlin-based labels that pay homage to modern fashion design: Hien Le and Issever Bahri.

Hien Le, born in Laos, describes himself as “precise, patient and strong willed. Patience and strong willingness are shown by his choice to gain years of experience in tailoring and pr before he took the ‘jump’ in starting his own label. The other trait ‘precise’ is reflected by a minimalistic signature. The garment is sharply designed, using “clean and refined shapes”, which fits the frame of ‘new’ Berlin. In the S/S 2012 collection he combines his love for simplicity with his family’s origins in Laos. Hien Le named every garment after one of his relatives and incorporated colours like dark blue, deep red, soft yellows and apricot out of folklore outfits. These colours are neutralized by focussing more on European-styled garments: sharp blazers, breezy shorts, jumpsuits and dresses. Hien Le dedicated the collection to his grandfather, who encouraged him to become a designer, he explains: “I was always impressed as a child when watching my grandfather working and sewing. I wanted to do fashion at the age of 12, so I kind of got into his footsteps.”

Another Berlin promise, Issever Bahri, is founded by Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri in 2010. Both were fresh out of college (Fashion Design at HTW Berlin) but packed with impressive experiences. To name a few: Alexander McQueen and Boss who taught them the secrets of embroidery.

Issever Bahri is all about handcrafted items inspired by Greek and Turkish traditions. Derya Issever explains: “While growing up we were both always surrounded by handcrafted items and the different techniques of handcraft.” Handcraft is used to make a sophisticated yet edgy statement, or as the designers call it “sleek, strong and raw.” How is this sleek yet raw image translated in S/S 2012? “The silhouette is sleek but the material we used represents rawness. For example the raw look of neoprene in combination with the crochet leather,” answers Issever. And yes, crochet leather inspired by traditional Turkish doilies– the handcrafted item she refers to – plays the lead in this collection. This shows Issever Bahri’s strongest quality: making the best out of childhood traditions and putting it in a modern context.

The two labels resemble in the fact that they focus on the future but embrace their backgrounds. Just like Berlin itself they aren’t afraid to blend the old and new into a cutting-edge story.

For more information, visit:
http://isseverbahri.com and http://hien-le.com/

Newsflash

- The 16 participants of Next & Cutting Edge will be presenting their collections on both the catwalk and salon style in the Next & Cutting Edge area.

- The Trash & Treasures section is a garage sale deluxe, with new labels, vintage, accessories, luxury streetwear and interesting books, music, fantastic finger food and delicious drinks.

- In keeping with tradition, the first day of Modefabriek will conclude with ‘The Borrel’, where retailers, suppliers, stylists and journalists can meet and mingle in an informal setting.

- Modefabriek is continuing its collaboration with retail organisation Deco and presenting an eclectic mix of mention-worthy men’s labels under the name ‘MF and Deco Present…’.

- Prolonged due to success: high-end vintage salon sale by Heleen Hülsmann in the heart of Refined+, with little or never worn shoes, bags and costume jewellery from designers like Balenciaga, Balmain, Westwood and Prada.

- Sublime is a brand-new and highly innovative brand exhibition. It is an interesting and interactive platform which showcases top brands from various sectors.

Next & Cutting Edge catwalk video

Julie Eilenberger

Danish designer JULIE EILENBERGER was one of sixteen participants of the Cutting Edge platform at Modefabriek. For her graduation collection, entitled Naked As We Came, the designer drew her inspiration from the naive, isolated and imaginative world of both children and adults.

She apologises for the fact that she has lost her voice, the result of long nights working on her collection, which must be finished a week from now. Fortunately, she can still be understood. “It’s sheer madness right now. I have a small studio where I work around the clock with friends, family and trainees. The collection involves a great deal of handiwork, so all help is welcome.”  This young designer is studying fashion at the Universität der Künste Berlin (UdK). “The most important thing I’ve learned is to cut myself off from the world and follow my gut. The analysis part comes afterwards,” she explains. At the UdK, the focus is on the personal development of students. External influences are avoided as much as possible.  “We do not receive much information about the fashion industry or what other designers are doing. This results in a sort of isolated world. It makes you a lot more creative.” But that doesn’t mean she’s afraid to leave her familiar cocoon and face the real world of fashion. “I grew up with hardworking parents, each with their own business. I’m not naïve. Throughout the creative process, I enjoy excluding myself from the world and, afterwards, find it particularly interesting to see how people respond to my work.”

Although her mother worked as a graphic designer and her father as a photographer, Julie knew from a very young age that her path would be a different one. “I was always a bit of an outsider, a ‘hippie’ if you like. My parents’ work was very commercial. I saw fashion as something experimental and without boundaries.” Following in the footsteps of her parents has never been an option. “What child wants to be their parents anyway?!”, she laughs. Eilenberger has never had a style icon or favourite designer. Her fascination with fashion is based purely out of her own interest. “When I was growing up, I couldn’t wait to be old enough to wear women’s clothing. I was very small and thin and looked forward to the day my mother’s clothing would fit me.” Memories from the past have an important influence on the designer’s work. “When I was little I lived in my own world. Most of my inspiration is derived from my personal experiences and the people around me.” Eilenberger is unable to name a favourite designer. “I don’t want to limit myself. I admire designers who come up with something different every season and continuously reinvent themselves without losing sight of their personal values. A good example is PRADA, which, amazingly, remains true to itself every season.”

Her graduation collection Naked As We Came is inspired by the overlapping world of children and adults. “I am fascinated by the naive yet eccentric world in which they both live, the fact that older people often regress to a childlike state, once again becoming isolated from the world outside and creating their own world.” Eilenberger combines old and new in the collection. This includes the use of the old-fashioned zigzag, which she has printed digitally. Traditional knitwear techniques are also used in a new way by working with cotton instead of wool. “I’ve sought out a balance between old-fashioned and childlike. I’ve always been fascinated by old people. I spent a year living inItaly and loved how the older women get all dressed up there, with a look that is simultaneously traditional and eccentrically cool.” Eilenberger hopes to break through with her collection. “A lot depends on this. If there is enough interest, the collection can be put into production and ultimately sold.” The designer tends to avoid contemplating the commercial aspects of the profession. “A large fashion house is not my ambition. I work very hard to keep doing what I am doing, without committing myself to a commercial label.”

Although she very much enjoys living in Berlin, Eilenberger looks forward to moving back to Londonafter graduation. This has been her favourite city since she worked at CHRISTOPHER KANE during an internship. “Hard work but fun. I was there the entire season, so I got a very good idea about the way things work in this world.” The mentality of the designers and the fashion scene in the city are what appeal to her most. “People are not afraid to take risks. Fashion is much more reserved and commercially oriented in Denmark.”  All the same, she visits her home country often. “I’m constantly on the go and feel most at home in a combination of different places. I love the big city; there’s always something to do, lots of people, and you never get bored. But I also love to go home and sit and watch the sea. That makes me feel a bit calmer, healthier.” There is little chance of a future inParis. “I’m crazy aboutParis but, as far as fashion is concerned, it’s a bit more traditional and conservative. Give meLondon’s spirit of freedom any day.”

According to the designer herself, a Julie Eilenberger design is difficult to categorise. “The inspiration for my past collections was always different and very specific.” Whereas her My Inner Outer Space collection was influenced by her favourite science fiction film, Barbarella, she drew her inspiration from the abstract landscapes of nature films for the Marry Me Nature collection. “My inspiration changes with the time. I love to throw myself into a project and live in that world for a few months.” And yet, the use of handiwork, nostalgic influences and a play of colours are elements found in every collection. “It’s always a mix between yesterday and tomorrow.”

By STEFFIE HENDERSON
Photography by STELLA SCHWENDNER

Next & Cutting Edge

NATIONAL DESIGNERS ON INTERNATIONAL NEXT & CUTTING EDGE STAGE

On July 17^th and 18^th, Amsterdam will welcome a group of 16 international fashion design talents. These designers, invited by Modefabriek to present their newest collections at the Next & Cutting Edge designer platform, hail from locations around the globe, including Spain, Denmark, the UK, the US and Romania. There are also 4 home-grown talents. These Dutch designers are well worth their place on this international stage.

Take Iranian-born Dutch designer Maryam Kordbacheh. After graduating cum laude from the Willem de Kooning Academy and then completing a masters degree at the Arnhem Fashion Institute, Kordbacheh reached the final of this year’s edition of the internationally acclaimed Hyères International Festival of Fashion & Photography. The young fashion duo Bravoure went just across the border to present and sell their ‘Native Structures’ 2011 collection at the pop-up concept store DSGNRMRKT in Hasselt, Belgium. Furthermore, Roos van Kampen, winner of the 2010 series of Catwalk Runway is currently aiming to launch her label Roparosa on the international stage. Last week, she debuted internationally with her brand new collection at Premium in Berlin. Her national sales figures have skyrocketed in the last year and she is now ready to expand her borders. Our newest prospect is Afghan-born Roya Hesam. Having graduated from AMFI, she won the International Award at London’s Graduate Fashion Week and she has already been picked up by Vogue UK.

All 16 designers are being presented on Modefabriek’s Next & Cutting Edge international designer stage. On Monday, the 18th of July, their designs will be showcased on the Modefabriek catwalk.

Next & Cutting Edge

Much to the satisfaction of enthusiasts of pure and avant-garde fashion, international talent will be given a platform to strut their stuff at the Next & Cutting Edge fashion show. Sixteen carefully selected designer labels will be participating in a must-see catwalk show and presenting their collections in the designer platform. The Next & Cutting Edge catwalk show is scheduled for 12 pm on Monday, 18 July. Read more »

MODEFABRIEK’S EMERGING DESIGNERS

Next & Cutting Edge is a showcase and support programme for emerging national and international fashion designers. Every January and July, a group of 16 leading-edge designers travel from all over the world to Modefabriek Amsterdam for an introduction to the Dutch and Western European fashion markets. This avant-garde elite section of Modefabriek is increasingly receiving attention from exclusive high-end fashion boutiques and the national and international fashion press. We have presented already over 120 great talents to date. Amongst them, I would like to mention once more a diverse selection of brilliant designers we have had the pleasure of working with: couture menswear designers Jean // Phillip, Karlotalaspalas and Carolyn Massey, the avant-garde silhouette designer  Max.Tan, and the androgynous designs by intelligent designers David Andersen Denmark and Barbara I Gongini. Then there are the creative sculpture and print geniuses Ara Jo, Tour de Force, Martin Bergström and Belle Sauvage. And, last but not least, we should give a shout-out to our wonderful Dutch design talents and participants at Next & Cutting Edge: Conny Groenewegen, Elsien Gringhuis, Sjaak Hullekes and young Hyun Yeu’s Ado Les Scents.

Now it’s time to look ahead and present the next 16 designers that will be present at Modefabriek on 17^th and 18^th of July. To be revealed soon.