Tag: glamcult

The Paper Movement

This month The New York Times is named best selling iPad application. The newspaper still in print, which was founded by Henry J. Raymond and George Jones in 1851, decided to release their online version as an application for the first time in April 2010, handing their readers a more easy way of reading while traveling and gaining a bigger audience worldwide. Ever since the first iPad was released, the number of printed publications launching their own app has increased enormously with Apple’s Newsstand Application gaining over $70.000 in sales a day.

Perhaps it can be said that online will be the future in publishing. On the other hand it can also be said that even though online is gaining much more power, printed publications will never disappear. In the current bookstores we are seeing new magazines pop out of the blue each month. Between the emergence of these new magazines and papers, we’re also discovering some papers focused on fashion, and are wondering wether making a fashion-paper rather than a fashion-magazine is a way to stand out or if we may be facing a whole new generation of papers.

Let me introduce you to my personal favorites:

ACNE PAPER
A well-progressed desire that developed into a cult-hit and one of today’s most intelligent fashion papers around. Founded in 2005 by Acne’s Creative Director Jonny Johansson, CEO Mikael Schiller, Editor-in-Chief Thomas Persson and Fashion Director Mattias Karlsson. Their goal was to create a magazine that wouldn’t feel or look like anything on the market, a publication that was about style rather then fashion and journalistic integrity that would balance between historical as well as the contemporary aspect in all creative fields.

Seven years and thirteen issues later the bi-annual selling paper is an established name in today’s art as well as the fashion industry and respected for its very own signature. Their latest issue, #13 The Body Issue, can now be bought in a number of bookshops and stores around the world, as well as through their website acnepaper.com

GLAMCULT
The Style Paper started as an underground tabloid which was distributed by hand to a select group of stores in the Netherlands. Founded in 2003 by Rogier Vlaming and Wiebe de Ridder, the now-a-days Independent Style Paper can be found in most bookstores, cafes, clothing stores and schools through-out the country. With a circulation of 40.000 issues a month the Style Paper became
one of the coolest publications in town and will hopefully spread their wings abroad any day soon. In the mean time you can visit their website to stay updated, glamcult.nl

MANUSCRIPT
The quarterly-printed mens journal created by Editor & Publisher Mitchell Oakley Smith, Design Director Nicholas Adamovich and Fashion Director Jolyon Mason may put its main focus on the new generation of fashion-forward-thinking men, but with their high-end advertisers and top notch names in the magazine, this paper is likely to become an instant hit sailing our way from Australia. For more information you can visit their website manuscriptdaily.com

MR. PORTER
Are men the type of customer to be shopping online was the question. Mr. Porter – the husband of Net-A-Porter – proved anyone thinking this way wrong, shipping their products to over 117 different countries and selling more then 42.000 shoes,  to merely mention their success. With over a thousand images being shot for their website’s Journal, it was a matter of time before the online hit would be taking to print welcoming ‘The Mr Porter Post’ in Fall 2011. In the printed publication you will find anything that comes along when talking about style, ranging from the best boots for the season to combining neutral colored items in your daily wardrobe or how to organize your closet. The Mr. Porter Post is send to anyone subscribing through their website, mrporter.com

Julie Eilenberger

Danish designer JULIE EILENBERGER was one of sixteen participants of the Cutting Edge platform at Modefabriek. For her graduation collection, entitled Naked As We Came, the designer drew her inspiration from the naive, isolated and imaginative world of both children and adults.

She apologises for the fact that she has lost her voice, the result of long nights working on her collection, which must be finished a week from now. Fortunately, she can still be understood. “It’s sheer madness right now. I have a small studio where I work around the clock with friends, family and trainees. The collection involves a great deal of handiwork, so all help is welcome.”  This young designer is studying fashion at the Universität der Künste Berlin (UdK). “The most important thing I’ve learned is to cut myself off from the world and follow my gut. The analysis part comes afterwards,” she explains. At the UdK, the focus is on the personal development of students. External influences are avoided as much as possible.  “We do not receive much information about the fashion industry or what other designers are doing. This results in a sort of isolated world. It makes you a lot more creative.” But that doesn’t mean she’s afraid to leave her familiar cocoon and face the real world of fashion. “I grew up with hardworking parents, each with their own business. I’m not naïve. Throughout the creative process, I enjoy excluding myself from the world and, afterwards, find it particularly interesting to see how people respond to my work.”

Although her mother worked as a graphic designer and her father as a photographer, Julie knew from a very young age that her path would be a different one. “I was always a bit of an outsider, a ‘hippie’ if you like. My parents’ work was very commercial. I saw fashion as something experimental and without boundaries.” Following in the footsteps of her parents has never been an option. “What child wants to be their parents anyway?!”, she laughs. Eilenberger has never had a style icon or favourite designer. Her fascination with fashion is based purely out of her own interest. “When I was growing up, I couldn’t wait to be old enough to wear women’s clothing. I was very small and thin and looked forward to the day my mother’s clothing would fit me.” Memories from the past have an important influence on the designer’s work. “When I was little I lived in my own world. Most of my inspiration is derived from my personal experiences and the people around me.” Eilenberger is unable to name a favourite designer. “I don’t want to limit myself. I admire designers who come up with something different every season and continuously reinvent themselves without losing sight of their personal values. A good example is PRADA, which, amazingly, remains true to itself every season.”

Her graduation collection Naked As We Came is inspired by the overlapping world of children and adults. “I am fascinated by the naive yet eccentric world in which they both live, the fact that older people often regress to a childlike state, once again becoming isolated from the world outside and creating their own world.” Eilenberger combines old and new in the collection. This includes the use of the old-fashioned zigzag, which she has printed digitally. Traditional knitwear techniques are also used in a new way by working with cotton instead of wool. “I’ve sought out a balance between old-fashioned and childlike. I’ve always been fascinated by old people. I spent a year living inItaly and loved how the older women get all dressed up there, with a look that is simultaneously traditional and eccentrically cool.” Eilenberger hopes to break through with her collection. “A lot depends on this. If there is enough interest, the collection can be put into production and ultimately sold.” The designer tends to avoid contemplating the commercial aspects of the profession. “A large fashion house is not my ambition. I work very hard to keep doing what I am doing, without committing myself to a commercial label.”

Although she very much enjoys living in Berlin, Eilenberger looks forward to moving back to Londonafter graduation. This has been her favourite city since she worked at CHRISTOPHER KANE during an internship. “Hard work but fun. I was there the entire season, so I got a very good idea about the way things work in this world.” The mentality of the designers and the fashion scene in the city are what appeal to her most. “People are not afraid to take risks. Fashion is much more reserved and commercially oriented in Denmark.”  All the same, she visits her home country often. “I’m constantly on the go and feel most at home in a combination of different places. I love the big city; there’s always something to do, lots of people, and you never get bored. But I also love to go home and sit and watch the sea. That makes me feel a bit calmer, healthier.” There is little chance of a future inParis. “I’m crazy aboutParis but, as far as fashion is concerned, it’s a bit more traditional and conservative. Give meLondon’s spirit of freedom any day.”

According to the designer herself, a Julie Eilenberger design is difficult to categorise. “The inspiration for my past collections was always different and very specific.” Whereas her My Inner Outer Space collection was influenced by her favourite science fiction film, Barbarella, she drew her inspiration from the abstract landscapes of nature films for the Marry Me Nature collection. “My inspiration changes with the time. I love to throw myself into a project and live in that world for a few months.” And yet, the use of handiwork, nostalgic influences and a play of colours are elements found in every collection. “It’s always a mix between yesterday and tomorrow.”

By STEFFIE HENDERSON
Photography by STELLA SCHWENDNER