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Next & Cutting Edge catwalkshow

Next & Cutting Edge

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NEW AT MODEFABRIEK// BERLIN PROMISES: LOOKING BACK AND AHEAD WITH HIEN LE & ISSEVER BAHRI S/S 2012

In Berlin the old and new are merged as one. The city is known for its industrial design as well as its Russian architecture, bohemian artists, its do-it-yourself mentality and graffiti plastered districts. Somewhere along the line the old and new blended and it has been translated into fashion. The Next and Cutting Edge-platform presents two Berlin-based labels that pay homage to modern fashion design: Hien Le and Issever Bahri.

Hien Le, born in Laos, describes himself as “precise, patient and strong willed. Patience and strong willingness are shown by his choice to gain years of experience in tailoring and pr before he took the ‘jump’ in starting his own label. The other trait ‘precise’ is reflected by a minimalistic signature. The garment is sharply designed, using “clean and refined shapes”, which fits the frame of ‘new’ Berlin. In the S/S 2012 collection he combines his love for simplicity with his family’s origins in Laos. Hien Le named every garment after one of his relatives and incorporated colours like dark blue, deep red, soft yellows and apricot out of folklore outfits. These colours are neutralized by focussing more on European-styled garments: sharp blazers, breezy shorts, jumpsuits and dresses. Hien Le dedicated the collection to his grandfather, who encouraged him to become a designer, he explains: “I was always impressed as a child when watching my grandfather working and sewing. I wanted to do fashion at the age of 12, so I kind of got into his footsteps.”

Another Berlin promise, Issever Bahri, is founded by Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri in 2010. Both were fresh out of college (Fashion Design at HTW Berlin) but packed with impressive experiences. To name a few: Alexander McQueen and Boss who taught them the secrets of embroidery.

Issever Bahri is all about handcrafted items inspired by Greek and Turkish traditions. Derya Issever explains: “While growing up we were both always surrounded by handcrafted items and the different techniques of handcraft.” Handcraft is used to make a sophisticated yet edgy statement, or as the designers call it “sleek, strong and raw.” How is this sleek yet raw image translated in S/S 2012? “The silhouette is sleek but the material we used represents rawness. For example the raw look of neoprene in combination with the crochet leather,” answers Issever. And yes, crochet leather inspired by traditional Turkish doilies– the handcrafted item she refers to – plays the lead in this collection. This shows Issever Bahri’s strongest quality: making the best out of childhood traditions and putting it in a modern context.

The two labels resemble in the fact that they focus on the future but embrace their backgrounds. Just like Berlin itself they aren’t afraid to blend the old and new into a cutting-edge story.

For more information, visit:
http://isseverbahri.com and http://hien-le.com/

Newsflash

- The 16 participants of Next & Cutting Edge will be presenting their collections on both the catwalk and salon style in the Next & Cutting Edge area.

- The Trash & Treasures section is a garage sale deluxe, with new labels, vintage, accessories, luxury streetwear and interesting books, music, fantastic finger food and delicious drinks.

- In keeping with tradition, the first day of Modefabriek will conclude with ‘The Borrel’, where retailers, suppliers, stylists and journalists can meet and mingle in an informal setting.

- Modefabriek is continuing its collaboration with retail organisation Deco and presenting an eclectic mix of mention-worthy men’s labels under the name ‘MF and Deco Present…’.

- Prolonged due to success: high-end vintage salon sale by Heleen Hülsmann in the heart of Refined+, with little or never worn shoes, bags and costume jewellery from designers like Balenciaga, Balmain, Westwood and Prada.

- Sublime is a brand-new and highly innovative brand exhibition. It is an interesting and interactive platform which showcases top brands from various sectors.

Next & Cutting Edge catwalk video

Next & Cutting Edge

16 x INTERNATIONAL

I recently introduced the 4 Dutch designers taking part at the international platform of Next & Cutting Edge. This Saturday, 12 more designers fly & drive to Amsterdam to participate at the talent and avant-garde designer stage at Modefabriek. Tomorrow we will all meet up for the fitting of the show presentation Modefabriek presents Next & Cutting Edge, scheduled on Monday 18th around noon. From Sunday, they are already present for meeting & greeting, an introduction to their label and the showcase of their newest collections.

To start off with Patrick Mohr. The German avant-garde designer creates designs that are architectural, sometimes draped in flowing, and a tension between elegance and sportiness, avantgarde and streetwear. After having seen his collection SS 2012 collection „I Want Mohr“ at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin last week, I indeed want mohr. And yes, we are presenting a good selection of Mr. Mohr’s collection next Monday on the Next & Cutting Edge catwalk.

Meet Katja Schlegel and Kai Seifried. They are the designers behind Starstyling. The label created a self-made universe, filled with brain damage and exploratory techniques, and is on something like a voyage through a world of urban pattern-making. Starstyling takes you along on their next journey with their ss 2012 ‘Stripes for your right right to party’. As this name already suggests.. it’s all about stripes. In the form of sporty style, comfortable summer clothing.

Also German-based, but Danish designer Julie Eilenberger, always starts her work from an emotion which then translates into clothing and visuals. She draws her drawing inspiration from her own childhood and is fascinated by the eccentric and delicate worlds that the elderly live in. Eilenberger found it was a natural topic for her to combine the extremely similar characteristics of these two demographics and translate it to her collection.

The label SADAK by Serbian designer Sasa Kovacevic maintains strong ethnographic ties to Serbian traditional attire and is generally inspired by culture and history. SADAK often reinterprets traditional and/or historical clothing with a fashion-forward flair, blending tribal symbolism, local beliefs and, for example, sci-fi cinema.

Danish brand uncommon creatures was founded by Jens Kold-Christensen and Christina Højris Ottosen with their debut A/W10 collection. Jens studied brand design, marketing and communication, while Christina attended a course in fashion design at TEKO. Their ways crossed in 2008: they met accidentally in a bar and got along at once.
Uncommon creatures’s main concept encapsulates aesthetic motifs of different ethnic communities. This results in daring collections, at times showing through a dark mood, that focuses on perfect wearability, in combination of pure, raw designs, age-old traditions and contemporary trends. This, topped with charm and mystery.

Hailing from Spain is the design duo of young El Colmillo de Morsa. Catalan Jordi Espino and Elisabet Vallecillo both graduated from ESDi Design University. Directly after, they decided to create their own brand. Their s/s 2012 collection “El Triángulo de las Bermudas” (Bermuda Triangle), lets us embark into the unknown, into mystery of old legends and myths told by those explorers who embark on a journey of no return.

Just across the border, Antwerp-based designer Belgian Angelo van Mol shows us his signature design in the collection SHRPST. A collection with male elegance, sportswear and formal wear. As graduate from the Royal academy of fine arts he wins the acclaimed “motivation award from Ann Demeulemeester & Ann Chapelle”.

US, New York based Raun LaRose is graduate of the Art Institute of New York. In 2009, he interned at Zac Posen in Paris. A year later, young LaRose had launched his own independent menswear label. LaRose is considering to furthering his education at Central Saint Martin’s in London but already he’s a designer to watch.

Folk themed designers twenty(2)too from Romania and German label Thu Thu give us colorful prints, knitwear and clean lining. More knitwear will be presented by Lithuanian born Laura Theiss. This fresh and talented Central Saint Martins graduate continues her exploration of traditional hand knitting and croched techniques in her SS 2012 collection. The collection is inspired by the mood of the zeitgeist, she brings her signature style of unusual colour and texture combination with a futuristic, feminine injection.

NATIONAL DESIGNERS ON INTERNATIONAL NEXT & CUTTING EDGE STAGE

On July 17^th and 18^th, Amsterdam will welcome a group of 16 international fashion design talents. These designers, invited by Modefabriek to present their newest collections at the Next & Cutting Edge designer platform, hail from locations around the globe, including Spain, Denmark, the UK, the US and Romania. There are also 4 home-grown talents. These Dutch designers are well worth their place on this international stage.

Take Iranian-born Dutch designer Maryam Kordbacheh. After graduating cum laude from the Willem de Kooning Academy and then completing a masters degree at the Arnhem Fashion Institute, Kordbacheh reached the final of this year’s edition of the internationally acclaimed Hyères International Festival of Fashion & Photography. The young fashion duo Bravoure went just across the border to present and sell their ‘Native Structures’ 2011 collection at the pop-up concept store DSGNRMRKT in Hasselt, Belgium. Furthermore, Roos van Kampen, winner of the 2010 series of Catwalk Runway is currently aiming to launch her label Roparosa on the international stage. Last week, she debuted internationally with her brand new collection at Premium in Berlin. Her national sales figures have skyrocketed in the last year and she is now ready to expand her borders. Our newest prospect is Afghan-born Roya Hesam. Having graduated from AMFI, she won the International Award at London’s Graduate Fashion Week and she has already been picked up by Vogue UK.

All 16 designers are being presented on Modefabriek’s Next & Cutting Edge international designer stage. On Monday, the 18th of July, their designs will be showcased on the Modefabriek catwalk.

Next & Cutting Edge

Much to the satisfaction of enthusiasts of pure and avant-garde fashion, international talent will be given a platform to strut their stuff at the Next & Cutting Edge fashion show. Sixteen carefully selected designer labels will be participating in a must-see catwalk show and presenting their collections in the designer platform. The Next & Cutting Edge catwalk show is scheduled for 12 pm on Monday, 18 July. Read more »

MODEFABRIEK’S EMERGING DESIGNERS

Next & Cutting Edge is a showcase and support programme for emerging national and international fashion designers. Every January and July, a group of 16 leading-edge designers travel from all over the world to Modefabriek Amsterdam for an introduction to the Dutch and Western European fashion markets. This avant-garde elite section of Modefabriek is increasingly receiving attention from exclusive high-end fashion boutiques and the national and international fashion press. We have presented already over 120 great talents to date. Amongst them, I would like to mention once more a diverse selection of brilliant designers we have had the pleasure of working with: couture menswear designers Jean // Phillip, Karlotalaspalas and Carolyn Massey, the avant-garde silhouette designer  Max.Tan, and the androgynous designs by intelligent designers David Andersen Denmark and Barbara I Gongini. Then there are the creative sculpture and print geniuses Ara Jo, Tour de Force, Martin Bergström and Belle Sauvage. And, last but not least, we should give a shout-out to our wonderful Dutch design talents and participants at Next & Cutting Edge: Conny Groenewegen, Elsien Gringhuis, Sjaak Hullekes and young Hyun Yeu’s Ado Les Scents.

Now it’s time to look ahead and present the next 16 designers that will be present at Modefabriek on 17^th and 18^th of July. To be revealed soon.